You go to experience a town that, in spite of the crowds, is thoroughly enjoyable. While the bone chapel is fascinating...there's more life down on the town square. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who was the cathedral organist for two years, was born in this house in 1756. Hallstatt's Catholic church overlooks the town from above. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. Enjoy the lake-country view as you're dragged up the mountain. Some northern artists even Italianized their names in order to raise their rates. Lying on a busy trade route connecting northern Europe with the south, Salzburg was well aware of the exciting things going on in Italy. (photo: Rick Steves) Those who climb (or ride) up to Salzburg's fortress are treated to … My Account. As is often the case in rowdy European eateries like this, you share tables...and make new friends. we drove from Salzburg; it was easy (something like under 2 hours, as I recall), but do know people who did it by train. From Salzburg, as above re Werfen Castle and ice caves, plus St Gilgen and Wolfgangsee for choice, all easy to reach. Today, the people of Salzburg are happy to pay a premium for the reliably fresh and top-quality produce. But Salzburg is busy all year long, with over 2,000 live performances in churches and palaces like this. Back then Vienna's Habsburg royalty made it their annual holiday retreat, and today it remains as delightful as ever. ▲▲ Salzburg Museum Best place for city history. While this particular tunnel dates only from 1719, Hallstatt's mine claims to be the oldest in the world. The guys who paid for it would say it was a good investment — so foreboding, nobody attacked Salzburg for a thousand years. (17:24). Lovable Hallstatt is a tiny town bullied onto a ledge between a mountain and a swan-ruled lake. ▲▲ Mozart's Birthplace House where Mozart was born in 1756, featuring his instruments and other exhibits. In good Baroque style, the art is symbolic, cohesive, and theatrical...creating a kind of festival procession that leads to the resurrected Christ triumphing high above the altar. In Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on:. It was here that Mozart learned to play piano and violin and composed his first boy-genius works. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. Rick Steves has spent 100 days every year since 1973 exploring Europe. In 1747, Leopold Mozart — a musician in the prince-archbishop's band — moved into this small rental unit with his new bride. In Salzburg we'll explore its delightful Old Town, enjoy Mozart in a palace, and relax in a sun-dappled beer garden. The Sporer family has been distilling schnapps and selling it from this friendly hole in the wall for just over a hundred years. Rick Steves' Europe. Thanks to its charmingly preserved old town, splendid gardens, Baroque churches, and one of Europe's largest intact medieval fortresses, Salzburg feels made for tourism. Then home. Things Italian were respected and in vogue. You can also visit its underwhelming crypt (free), the nearby Cathedral Museum, and/or (in summer) the Cathedral Excavations Museum (worthwhile only for Roman-iacs). While its popularity has led to a glut of businesses hoping to catch the tourist dollar, Salzburg is nevertheless both a must and a joy. sights of Salzburg and surrounding countryside. The energetic Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich, who ruled around the year 1600, had the greatest impact on the town. Salzburg's cathedral, constructed in the early 1600s, was one of the first grand Baroque buildings north of the Alps. They were "prince-archbishops" — combining both political and religious power. To get to the Panoramabar from the main part of the library, you take a diagonally-moving elevator, which was a new experience for me. Alfred claims an hour on the lake is worth a day of vacation. Austria specializes in a knack for conviviality. Hi, I just returned from my second trip to Salzburg and Germany in 2 years, and I am in love with Salzburg, and staying in the Altstadt area. We too will be in Scandanavia (Oslo) (and London) soon- we fly out Thursday night. Share hotel & restaurant reviews. You'll still see the traditional Fuhr boats, designed to carry heavy loads in shallow water. Public marketplaces come with fountains, and Salzburg's are part of this city's ingenious medieval water system. The oar lock is still made of the gut of a bull. Learn about Author Central. Red Bull Hangar-7 — Salzburg’s big personality these days is the tycoon founder of Red Bull energy drink, Dietrich Mateschitz. They're cooked up fresh and simple and served with a nice Austrian dry white wine. Imagine how expensive this massive fortress was to build...and it was never really used in battle. It was here that he composed most of his boy-genius works. Smaller text Larger text. For fans, it's almost a pilgrimage. You don't go to Salzburg to avoid the tourists. Rick: So this is apple and pear? The Mozart family was successful enough to entertain Salzburg's high society in this fine room. The place is filled with scores of scores, portraits, [and] insights into his family life and how the young prodigy was basically home schooled by his hard-driving father. By Rick Steves Rather than visit the real-life sights from the life of Maria von Trapp and family, most tourists in Salzburg want to see the places where Julie Andrews and company were filmed performing the Hollywood version of the former almost-nun's story. Since the views from the fortress are more exciting than the exhibits, it makes sense to visit late in the day, when admission is much cheaper (and for a bit after the museums' closing time, depending on the season, you can walk up and enter the grounds for free). This is Sound of Music country. The Weissacher family rents a couple of simple yet comfy rooms to supplement their farm income. Herr Sporer: You sip it, yes. Rick Steves' guidebooks are the first I turn to when I get ready to plan a trip, and this one is really just excerpts (word for word) from the Germany and Austria ones, but since Munich, Fussen and Salzburg are my destinations for that area this book works perfectly. Vienna. They dissolved it into a brine, which flowed through miles of pipes — the oldest hewn out of logs — to Hallstatt and nearby towns where the brine was, and still is, cooked until only the salt remained. Tucked away in the heart of the Old Town and abutting the rock wall of Mönchsberg is St. Peter's Cemetery. Terms of Service | Privacy, Upcoming Holidays and Festivals in Austria, Music Appreciation for Travel: Part II Family of five (two young adults, one teen) Stuttgart and Munich advice. Lightweight, yet packed with info on the cities' history and culture, Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg truly is a tour guide in your pocket. Best of all, it comes with a fun funicular ride to the Rudolfsturm "Skywalk" Viewpoint, with stunning panoramas over the town and lake. The Hohensalzburg Fortress towers 400 feet above the Salzach River. The courtyard was the main square of this hilltop community of a thousand — which could be self-sufficient when necessary. Thanks for joining us. Rent bills are sent out about every 10 years. ▲▲ Hohensalzburg Fortress Imposing mountaintop castle, with small museums, commanding views, and concerts most evenings. With the scarcity of level land, tall homes had their front door on the street level top floor and their water entrance several floors below. From our home base in Salzburg, we side trip into the Salzkammergut lake district — Lake Hallstatt and the town by the same name. St. Sebastian Cemetery is a quiet oasis in Salzburg. Since it had no road access, people came and went by boat. Nine years later, a little boy was born — Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Its name basically means "salt fortress." One of Europe's mightiest castles, it dominates Salzburg's skyline. Amidst all the tourists and chain outlets, its classy shops and traditional wrought-iron signs give it a touch of elegance. Different strokes, I guess. Posted on July 23, 2006 December 2, 2013. There was a Hallstatt before there was a Rome. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol book. ▲▲ Getreidegasse Picturesque old shopping lane with characteristic wrought-iron signs. Oh...that's good. For generations, the traditional salt miners' band has entertained their town. Austria Reviews. Germany's Munich and the Foothills of the Alps, ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Rick: And what is schnapps? All over Europe I enjoy evocative cemeteries. If no one cares enough to make the payment, you're gone. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. If you'd like to commune with nature in a uniquely Austrian way, Salzburg is the ideal jumping off point for spectacular countryside to the south. Set your sights on the spire of the Augustinian Church, and you'll find what seems like half of Salzburg feasting and drinking. St. Peter's Cemetery Atmospheric old cemetery with mini-gardens overlooked by cliff face with monks' caves. Salt — so precious as a preservative in pre-refrigerator days — was a huge part of this region's economy all the way back to pre-historic times. Rick: So there's many different kinds of schnapps? You don't throw it down, you sip it. Rick- Glad to see that you are re-visiting some places that are among the favorites of my husband and myself- due to your TV show. Later, miners dug tunnels to extract the salty rock. By Rick Steves Hohensalzburg Fortress looms 400 feet above Salzburg's forest of Baroque spires. see our FAQ. For centuries, Salzburg's leaders were both important church authorities and political rulers. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | This fountain could be straight out of Italy. Herr Sporer: You have this after dinner as a digestif or you drink it beside a beer in the evening or... And this evening the Twins Quartet from Moscow play Mozart's Eine kleine Nachtmusik. And Alfred's not the only one with that idea. In this case, while Salzburg leaves me cold, I did manage to find plenty to like about it. Salzburg is steeped in history. Learn more about the Rick Steves Audio Europe app or download the app now: Prefer podcasts? The tiny train station is across Lake Hallstatt from the postcard-pretty town by the same name: Hallstatt. To properly enjoy this lavish palace — once the prince-archbishop's summer palace and now the seat of the mayor — get a ticket to a Schlosskonzert (my favorite venue for a classical concert; the palace is otherwise closed to visitors). Herr Alfred Lenz makes the town's traditional boats from a 200-year-old design. Each summer it hosts its famous Salzburg Festival. Inside you'll find:Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and moneyShort itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the … Are you an author? Each of the several hundred painted skulls has been lovingly named, dated, and decorated. Wolfgang Mozart spent much of his first 25 years in Salzburg — one of the greatest Baroque cities north of the Alps. Herr Sporer: Apple and pear, yes. Nannerl called this portrait the best ever done of her brother. Rick Steves is America's leading authority on European travel. Salzburg, which grew rich from the salt trade long ago, is touristy but still enjoyable today. Herr Sporer: Apple and pear. A series of interconnecting squares lead from here through the Old Town. Rick Steves' my way alpine Europe in 12 days. Do you have a favorite? Enjoying the garden/cathedral/castle view, it's easy to imagine how the prince-archbishop must have reveled in such a vista that reminded him of all his secular as well as religious power. Getting a beer is fun in itself. Herr Sporer: Yes, there are many fruits in Austria and we distill almost everything. see our FAQ. The New Town has the big business and train station, but the Old Town, sitting between the Salzach River and a hill called Mönchsberg, holds nearly all the charm...and most of the tourists. If you have yet to tour a salt mine, consider visiting Hallstatt's, which is still active, producing 1.1 million tons of salt each year (mostly used for road salt, though you can also buy souvenir shakers of table salt). There were major salt mines just upstream. ▲▲ Salzburg Cathedral Glorious, harmonious Baroque main church of Salzburg. The stream, divided into smaller canals, was channeled through town. While fires have been a recurrent problem, many houses go way back. The lake is a playground for visitors in rental boats, which come with two speeds: slow and stop. The well dipped into a rain-fed cistern. We're heading into the Mirabell Palace to hear a string quartet play in a splendid Baroque hall. Austria — with its Germanic passion for quality — is enthusiastic about organically grown fruits and vegetables. Rick: And when is the normal when time you would drink schnapps in Austria? It's also the springboard for lots of alpine fun — from thrilling summer bobsledding, to idyllic boat rides in the Salzkammergut lake district, to exploring the delightful romantic town of Hallstatt. This giant Baroque church, where Mozart was baptized and later served as organist, boats exceptional stucco work, five organs, and lots of light (it doesn't have stained glass, and never did — just clear windows to let light power the message). ▲▲ Hellbrunn Palace Lavish palace on the outskirts of town featuring gardens with trick fountains. Today, Salzburg's pride in Mozart shows itself best not in museums but in live concerts. Swans patrol the lake like they own it. Salzburg's wealth was based on salt. A briny spring sprung here, attracting Bronze Age people. While much of the new part of town — on the far side of the river — was destroyed by WWII bombs, the historic Old Town survived. ... Last May we found ourselves in Salzburg with another couple. On balmy summer evenings, this brewery has the ambience of a Renoir painting as all generations gather under the chestnut trees, as they have for centuries, to enjoy cheap food, good beer, and that special local coziness called "Gemütlichkeit." This one dates from 1597. Stefanie (a boat) meets each arriving train and glides scenically across the lake into town. The next day, in Salzburg we parked our bikes at the Augustinian monastery where, once upon a time, the monks (must have been the most popular monks in town) brewed a heavenly beer. It's Austria's Salzkammergut lake district, where the "the hills are alive," and you're surrounded by the scenic wonder that has enthralled nature lovers from Emperor Franz Josef to Julie Andrews. This square, with its striking cathedral and Italian-style palace was the centerpiece of his Baroque dream city. Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. We have been traveling “Rick’s style” for 20+ years and love it. Rick: But this is after breakfast and you're still quite busy. For dessert — after a visit to the strudel kiosk — enjoy the incomparable floodlit view of old Salzburg from the nearby Müllnersteg pedestrian bridge and a riverside stroll home. They're popular with big-city families who want the opportunity to stay on a farm, to learn to ride, and just get away from the intensity of urban life. The core of this book is five self-guided walks and tours that zero in on Munich's greatest sights and neighborhoods, plus two chapters on the best day trips (to Salzburg and to Neuschwanstein Castle). Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Its river is called the "Salzach" not because it's salty, but because of the precious cargo it once carried. ▲ Mirabell Gardens and Palace Beautiful palace grounds and concert venue with fine views and Sound of Music memories. Last time I stayed in the Hotel Elephant, and it was very good, small rooms, central and it had air conditioning..which many in old bldgs do not have. Buy your token, choose a mug —two choices: big and HUGE, give it a rinse…and fill 'er up. When it's cool outside, enjoy a historic indoor setting in any of several beer-sloshed and smoke-stained halls (one of which is still for smokers). It's Sunday morning. The surrounding Mirabell Gardens, laid out in 1730, are a favorite with locals and tourists alike. Zum wohl! For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Rick: OK. Its ramparts provide the best views of the city. It's simple: push to go, pull to break...a treat for kids of all ages. Since it was built in only about 15 years, the church boasts particularly harmonious art and architecture. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol Paperback – April 4, 2017 by Rick Steves (Author) › Visit Amazon's Rick Steves Page. With around eight million visitors prowling its cobbled lanes each year, Salzburg can feel pretty touristy. The square was ringed by blacksmiths, bakers, and craftsmen. Then train to Vienna for 3-4 nights. Thanks for joining us. Rich guys' fine Renaissance-style tombs decorate the chapel walls. On busy nights, it's like a Munich beer hall with no music but the volume turned up. It's also a musical mecca, and the city puts on a huge annual festival as well as constant concerts. Rick: Obstler is apple and...? Everything you need is here. A steep funicular runs up the mountain to Hallstatt's salt mine. It has very nice views of Salzburg, the surrounding mountains, and the fortress (far in the distance). Terms of Service | Privacy, Salzburg, Austria: Hohensalzburg Fortress and Mönchsberg, Salzburg, Austria: Music, Lakes and Mountains, Salzburg, Austria: Sampling Schnapps on Getreidegasse. It's one of many throughout the region that offer tours. Is that right? One fun way to get a good dose of nature with a jolt of speed is on a Sommerrodlebahn. Mozart performed for the prince-archbishop right here. From the castle take a stroll across the forested Mönchsberg hill for a breezy respite from the city, and more commanding views. The building itself, bombed in World War II, is a reconstruction. That's because in Austria, grave sites are rented, not owned. Try Rick Steves Best of Germany . Thanks to its charming Old Town, splendid Baroque churches, one of Europe's largest medieval fortresses, and so many great places nearby, Salzburg feels designed to keep its visitors happy. Does that sound reasonable as far as timing? Read 11 reviews from the world's largest community for readers. In Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg you'll find only the best of those two cities — admittedly a tough call! This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. Pondering the old-time signs — which were advertising back in the days when most shoppers couldn't read — you can almost imagine strolling here looking for a sturdy pair of boots, a stylish dirndl, or even a little schnapps. The constantly flowing water flushed out the streets, provided fire protection, and powered factories. This collection of lovingly tended graves abuts the sheer rock face of the Mönchsberg (free, silence requested). In the 13th century, Salzburg was plumbed with a clever canal system, which has brought water into Salzburg from nearby hills ever since. Salzburg and Surroundings - Rick Steves’ Europe In Salzburg, be sure to explore its delightful old town filled with Mozart history and relaxing beer gardens; then settle into a … ▲▲ Sound of Music Tour Bus or bike through S.O.M. Behind the church, in the well-tended graveyard, is the 12th-century Chapel of St. Michael (even older than the church). They were as kind as ever and the food was still as good as I remembered. Fair enough. To build "the Rome of the North.". The organ loft fills the church with glorious sounds as Mozart, 250 years after his birth, is still powering worship with his musical genius. The graves are a collection of well-cared-for mini-gardens. The exhibits are aimed a bit more toward the Mozart connoisseur than those at Mozart's Birthplace, but the place comes with a good introductory video, is less crowded, and includes an informative audioguide. How do you like that? ▲ DomQuartier Museums Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich's Residenz palace, cathedral viewpoint, and religious art. These canals powered about 100 watermills in Salzburg, which were busily cranking as late as the 19th century. Herr Sporer: We're always busy because we're very old traditional shop in the Getreidegasse. Enter the cathedral and you're immersed in pure Baroque grandeur. Access is quick and easy from the Old Town by funicular. 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